手表回收APP官网

        手表回收APP官网　自從2017年日內瓦國際高級鍾表沙龍舉辦以來，如果說有一款手表仍然是眾多手表愛好者的共同追求，那應該就是愛彼皇家橡樹萬年曆了。 在皇家橡樹推出的40多年裏，傑拉爾德·吉塔很早就開始使用陶瓷制造表殼。由鋼，黃金，鉑金和鍛造碳制成的表殼幾乎被運用到在世界上所有類型的複雜時計上，但從來沒有同時在表圈和表鏈上采用陶瓷材質。正是這種新穎形式的加入，再結合制表業中最具標志性的設計之一(愛彼八角形表殼)，使得這款皇家橡樹在這個年代脫穎而出.

　　For this year’s edition of SIHH, Audemars Piguet introduced the all-black Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar watch ref. 26579CE in ceramic – as aforementioned, marking the first time the Swiss watchmaker has paired this case material to this particular complication. However, unlike previous ceramic case offerings which usually came fitted with rubber or exotic leather straps, Audemars Piguet is also introducing a brand new ceramic bracelet, hand-finished to the watchmaker’s signature staggering degree of detail to perfectly complement the Royal Oak case.

　　對於今年在SIHH亮相的版本，則是全黑陶瓷皇家橡樹萬年曆腕表，腕表型號為ref.26579CE。如上所述，這是瑞士制表第一次將這種材料與這種特殊的複雜功能結合在一起。然而，不同於以前的陶瓷表殼腕表，通常配有橡膠或異國情調的皮革表帶，愛彼還推出了全新的陶瓷表帶，純手工打造的表盤的標志性大格紋裝飾細節完美搭配皇家橡樹表殼。

　　From titanium and forged carbon to ceramic itself, Audemars Piguet has championed the use of exotic case materials for the better part of the last decade, so it should come as little surprise that the brand’s expertise finally gave birth to a matching ceramic bracelet for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. But the bracelet didn’t come easily – some 600 hours of research and development were invested into its production, largely because the true signature of an Audemars Piguet isn’t just the employment of exotic materials, but a mastery of finishing them with traditional high-end techniques usually reserved for metals like steel or gold. And because of ceramic’s notorious difficulty to produce and manipulate, it takes a highly trained technician over 30 hours to machine, polish, hand-finish, assemble, and control this particular ceramic bracelet – over five times longer than executing the same production procedures on a standard Audemars Piguet Royal Oak stainless steel bracelet.

　　從鈦和鍛造碳到陶瓷，愛彼在過去十年裏一直致力於打造獨特的表殼材料，如今愛彼通過自身的專業制表技術終於成功推出陶瓷表鏈並運用在皇家橡樹系列表款上。打造這樣一款表鏈是非常複雜的，新型的黑色高科技陶瓷經過了 600 小時研發(25 天)，很大程度上是因為打造一枚全新愛彼表不僅僅只是改變一下材質這麼簡單，更要以傳統用於鋼鐵和黃金等金屬的加工手段加工新型材料。而且由於陶瓷對於手工裝飾具有極高的處理難度，需要一位訓練有素的技術人員花30個小時來加工，拋光，手工打磨，組裝和調節這種特殊的陶瓷表帶，是用同樣標准程序加工一條精鋼表帶所需時間的5倍。

　　The end result is both seamless and sinister – delivering the same singular, unbroken aesthetic between case and bracelet we’re used to seeing on other Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar offerings in steel and gold, and quite frankly, the way the watch has always been meant to be worn. In ceramic, however, the watch remains lightweight, yet just assertive enough to lend the feeling of an ultralight titanium sport watch, but one whose finishing goes to eleven.

　　最終呈現的樣子就是這樣更加平整並且有意思暗黑風格，表殼和表鏈呈現獨特的、一體化工藝美感，就像皇家橡樹其他精鋼款、黃金款所呈現的造型。坦率地說，手表就是用來佩戴的，戴著越舒服越好。陶瓷表帶更加輕便，你完全可以感受到超輕量鈦合金般的運動手表體驗，不過這枚表款精致的多。

　　手表回收APP官网 Since it sprung to life for the first time in 1955, Audemars Piguet’s perpetual calendar movement has been another hallmark for the brand, and while the self-winding Caliber 5134 fitted to this Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar still bears the less-than-subtle recessed adjusters on the 9:00 side of the case, it’s still a highly modern movement deeply connected to the brand’s origins, bearing the reminder that the source of all time measurement ultimately begins and ends in the stars. To be more specific, though, the 5134 is sized specifically for the 41mm case and yields a three-register layout with month and leap year indicators at 12:00, a moonphase display at 6:00, and the day of the week at 9:00. Running the circumference of the dial on the rehaut is a central-mounted 52-week pointer. Even at that level of complication, the 5134 runs a svelte 4.31mm thick, which helps maintain the Royal Oak’s classically thin silhouette.

　　自1955年首次亮相以來，Audemars Piguet的萬年曆機芯一直是該品牌的另一標志，這款皇家橡樹萬年曆搭載自動上鏈機芯Calibre 5134。Calibre 5134始終保持低調設計，表殼9點側面凹陷的微調裝置，它是一個與品牌起源有深切聯系的現代化機芯，提醒所有計時技術均衍生自天文學和自然的循環周期。更具體來講，5134是經改進擴大來適應41毫米表殼的，表盤上的月份和閏年指標在12點鍾位置，日期顯示在3點鍾位置，月相顯示在6點鍾位置，星期顯示在9點鍾位置。表盤外圈為一年52個星期顯示。承載如此複雜的功能，5134厚度也就4.31毫米，使得這款皇家橡樹保有經典的古典纖薄外觀。

　　It just wouldn’t be a Royal Oak without the textured "Grande Tapisserie” guilloche dial, nor would it be one without the applied white gold hour indices, or octagonal bezel – all of which are mandatory signatures that have collectively made this watch a joy to behold through the ages. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar edition gets one other neat flourish – a photorealistic rendering of the moon, as sharply contrasted against the inky black case as the real thing beaming down from a dark winter sky.

　　如果表盤沒有鐫刻有“Grande Tapisserie”的大型格紋裝飾、沒有白金材質熒光立體時標抑或是八角形表圈，這款表就不能稱其為皇家橡樹。所有這些都是愛彼的獨一無二的印記，正式這些獨一無二讓愛彼在這個時代綻放光彩。皇家橡樹萬年曆版本還有一個令人驚奇的工藝 ，以真實的月球圖像顯示天文精確月相，與墨黑色部件形成鮮明對比，就像一輪真正的明月黑暗的冬夜天空升上來。　　當時就想要一只15710黑色，卻因為彙率啊折扣啊不理想而各種錯過。後來出了15710的藍色款，顏色更加跳躍運動，更加喜歡，可惜苦尋一段時間卻完全買不到。現在放棄離岸了，移情別戀皇橡，卻突然在很多店裏都遇到這款藍色15710的現貨，銷售說是因為去年藍色限量，今年放開了所以容易買很多。17年底的時候有次去杭州，事先知道杭州大廈有愛彼店，自然不會錯過。進店一眼就看到新出的藍色26331，像被聚光燈照射的明星站在舞台上，就一個感覺，哇，怎麼這麼閃!上手試戴，轉動手腕，腕間的這根鋼帶，光影交錯，宛如月光下的湖面吹來一陣風，泛起粼粼波光…從未關注過皇橡，瞬間路轉粉。　　回來研究皇橡，才知道26331不是愛彼自己的機芯所以沒有背透，而自己有較深的背透情節，就將目標鎖定為15400。然後就開始了痛苦的找尋藍色15400，尋遍幾乎所有的店，連個排隊資格都不給。一日突然大徹大悟，為什麼非要追一只自己都沒有試戴過的表，跟風就一定適合自己嗎，從之前自己戴表經曆來看，還是更喜歡黑色多一些，黑色又耐看又經典又不容易審美疲勞。果然退一步海闊天空，和愛彼自營的精品店的銷售預訂，答應一個月內就能到貨，上周末取回。

　　手表回收APP官网 終於有了屬於自己的皇橡，這幾日閑著沒事就把玩一下。不禁越來越欽佩愛彼對磨砂和拋光面搭配的造詣，驚歎Tapisserie格紋對光線的反射折射。愛彼對皇橡金屬表的打磨竟然可以做到這種爐火純青的地步。記得曾經某文章裏看到說愛彼是鋼王，論壇裏這麼說一定會被口水被各種噴。個人認為一只純正的鋼表不能只有個鋼表殼，還要有一條鋼鏈才是完整的鋼表。愛彼皇橡這條獨一無二的鋼帶就是我心中的王。 最後上圖，也套用句大家都愛說的話，水果6拍攝請輕噴，哈哈